… another Summer Adventure with Kultured Travels:

Turkish Delight

For the second summer I’ve had the pleasure of going on a cultural adventure with Kultured Travels!  If you’ve scrolled through the DOC (District of Candace) homepage a bit, you’ll quickly come across last summer’s post about my first Kultured Travels experience in the beautiful, yet enigmatic, Haiti. 

Spoiler Alert:  Haiti was as amazing as expected, and my experience with Kultured Travels was even better! So you know I had to run it back- this time to Istanbul and Cappadocia, Turkey!  I had the pleasure of visiting Istanbul many years ago with my aunt and a family friend. While I was excited to experience Istanbul again (almost 10 years later), I was most excited for the chance to do a sunrise hot air balloon ride in Cappadocia.  Ok, enough backstory… full details on my week in Turkey await! 

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Days 1-3: Istanbul, Turkey  

Arriving in Turkey was such a nostalgic feeling.  It’s funny how something can feel so new, yet so familiar at the same time. The one thing that definitely didn’t change was its beauty and lively heartbeat.  Istanbul has a pulse, and a pace that’s unmistakable. I’m a sucker for places that ooze antiquity; and wear its past as proudly as it does its present and future.  It’s one of the things I love the most about European cities- old meets new; aged meets youth; and tradition meets innovation.  Our Turkish adventure began with a lovely family-style dinner along the Bosphorus with views of the Blue Mosque. 

Our first full day in Istanbul was all about one of my favorite things… FOOODDDD!!! The way to this woman’s heart is through her stomach; and so is the way through an ancient city! One of the most intimate ways to get to know a place is through its food- the origin, the ingredients, how/ when it’s served, and even how it’s eaten- all so important to understanding the culture.  We started the day with a food tour led by a local pastry chef named Aish, short for Aishagul.    Our first sips and bites were Turkish tea and flaky pastries served with honey and butter.  We followed Aish down roads turned sidestreets, revealing other side streets hiding narrow store-lined streets.  I loved taking in all of the hidden gems down each cobblestone lined twist and turn- from vintage furniture stores to coffee/ sandwich shops to quaint boutique hotels- you name it we passed it. I could have easily spent the day aimlessly wandering the treasures and indulging the spoils of the steep side streets.  Next stop was for Turkish pizza called pide.  Instead of a flat, circular dough with a sauce base, pide is more pastry with the comforts of cheese, veggies, or meat.  Aish shared that local pide shops will allow you to bring your leftover meats and veggies for a pide “have it your way” style.

We strolled through more backroad stores and booths for a little retail therapy before enjoying a traditional street food: midye dolma, mussels stuffed with rice and lightly topped with a drizzle of fresh lemon juice.  As a seafood and street food lover, it was the perfect bite.  We also tried another Turkish favorite called Hamsi, deep fried anchovies.  Me… anchovies!? Yea, right! But hey, when in Turkey!!? This was probably one of the most pleasant surprises of the day.  That good ole grease makes everything better.  The lemony, tartar-like sauce that accompanied it was the perfect compliment.  Before our taste buds received a sweet goodbye we made one more stop… down the salt line to a pickling shop.  We ended our tour with more Turkish classics: coffee and baklava.  I’ve previously not been a huge fan of baklava, but again, when in Turkey! I decided to give it another try and it was delicious- a small, satisfyingly sweet bite.  A small cup of Turkish coffee helped us savor the first part of our day.  We’d continue to indulge… and engorge ourselves in Turkish delights with a cooking class.

I’ve never taken a cooking class, and I couldn’t have asked for a better first experience.  We trekked up a steep hill and a steeper set of steps to get to Kan and Hahn’s culinary lair- a rooftop kitchen perfectly perched for the golden hour glisten of the city.  Our group would help to prep and prepare four dishes:  Yaprak sarmasi (rice stuffed grape leaves), Manti (Turkish- style beef ravioli topped with yogurt), Yaglama (layers of thin dough topped with ground beef and spices- my FAVORITE dish of the experience!), and Kunefe (think a warm, buttery, shredded croissant layered in crispy, shredded cheese, drizzled with syrup served hot off the warm, round press of its shallow dish).  We laughed, and cooked, and danced, and prepared, and best of all ATE!  Every dish was so good, but my absolute favorite was the Yaglama!  I’m a meat and potatoes kinda girl.  So give me meaty, carby, cheesy anything and I’m in food heaven!  Han showed us the Turkish way to enjoy it.  We twirled each layer around our forks and devoured it in one bite.  And what a bite.  I can taste it as I write this… mmhmm! 

If you’re ever in Turkey, you owe it to yourself to go to a hammam and enjoy a Turkish bath, because it is an experience! It truly does transport your imagination to sultan- like luxury.  To literally have someone scrubbing, bathing, massaging, and nurturing your body and skin- from head to toe might I add- is the kind of pampering everyone needs and deserves.  

After enjoying our Turkish baths we explored the Grand Bazaar, considered to be one of the oldest and largest covered markets in the world.  We explored what felt like an endless maze of shops from designer handbag dupes to traditional Turkish slippers and kaftans.  My first time in the Grand Bazaar I left with an awesome pair of shoes. I've gotten so many compliments on them over the years.  I also got some amazing belly dancing hand jewelry.  

One of the things I remember telling myself that I would absolutely have to find a way to have in my home one day was one of those beautiful, spiral, Turkish chandeliers with the multi-colored, mosaic bulbs.  Aside from the fact I definitely didn’t have enough space in my suitcase, at 25, I simply couldn’t afford one.  Talk about manifesting, because at 33, I absolutely brought one home.  Did I buy the highest quality version of this masterpiece? I definitely didn’t.  BUT, ultimately, I got what I’ve always wanted at a great price! It was for sure meant to be mine because I somehow managed to not only find a way to pack it in my suitcase, but to get it through 4 checked flights and three different countries with barely any damage!  Again, talk about meant to be!  

I was also obsessed with the Turkish coats and kaftans.  I stumbled upon this amazing shop that stole my heart.  His entire shop was full of beautifully printed (some embroidered) fabrics, coats, kaftans, and robes.   He even had these amazing mule loafers.  So many bright and colorful ikat prints.  I could have easily bought at least two pairs.  Trust! If ya girl had space in her suitcase… smh.  No doubt they would have been in the collection.  Instead, though, I bought this amazing embroidered, long-line coat.  It had a traditional Turkish print in bright neon and gold colors.  Listen sugah, fall is not ready for me, ok bay-bee!!  I cannot wait to style that thang- from casual to athleisure, or workwear to streetwear. It is such a versatile piece.  And we absolutely love those!  I couldn’t have been more excited about my day at the Bazaar.  I left with two gems that I couldn’t wait to get home and have as a constant reminder of my Turkish adventure. 

To top off the day, pun intended, we enjoyed a lovely, rooftop dinner at Mikla in the Maramara Pera Hotel.  My love for trying fancy food aside, the views of Istanbul from the rooftop terrace were absolutely gorgeous and most definitely my favorite.  There aren’t too many things I enjoy more than getting dressed up for a beautiful meal with beautiful views! We enjoyed 3 delicious courses while Istanbul beamed and bustled below us.  We relished our last chance to take in Istanbul before we took off for the second leg of our Turkish Adventure.  Next up… Cappadocia! 

Days 4-5: Cappadocia,Turkey

The only thing I knew for sure about this leg of the trip is that it would involve a hot air balloon.  However, after arriving and getting a chance to see more of what this Eastern Region of Turkey had to offer, I realized it was just the tip of the iceberg.  Cappadocia is made up of 5 provinces:  Nevsehir, Kirsehir, Nigde, Aksaray and Kayseri.  The region is known for its variety of stunning natural rock formations; and the remnants of cave dwellings and churches carved into volcanic rock by early civilizations seeking refuge from invading empires.  As we rode from the airport to our hotel, I couldn’t help but take in the beautiful landscape.  Along the route we could see the openings of the dwellings from afar.  We’d also get a chance to live like the people of the past in our cave hotel- a modern version of course.  After settling in and having lunch we headed back to the hotel for some down time and rest before dinner.  

Little did I know,  dinner at Yasar Baba Restaurant would be one of the coolest experiences I’ve ever had.  When we arrived, we descended into a cave full of appetizer-lined tables centered around a dance floor.  I had an idea of what might be in store, but I wasn’t exactly sure.  From the first performance to the last, we were taken on a magic carpet ride of traditional Turkish folk dance. We whirled with dervishes and battled belly-dancers; sipped wine and devoured dinner’s lamb kebab; conga- lined the cave and frolicked around a fire pit.  It’s official- Cappadocia captured my attention!  

Our first and only full day started with a super cool tour of the Kaymalki Underground City.  The Kaymalki underground settlement was used as shelter and refuge for Christians seeking safety from ravaging invaders and plunderous platoons.  The inhabitants of the ancient settlement carved out stables for livestock, living rooms, kitchens, wine cellars, areas for food storage, and even a church.  While the city completely descends 8 floors, only four of them are open to the public.  It is believed up to 3,500 people inhabited the underground city. 

The remainder of the day was filled with several more tours: a jewelry shop, Turkish carpet factory, the Fairy Chimney rock formations, and a handmade pottery shop.  We capped off Cappadocia at Seki, a restaurant inside of hotel Argos with beautiful views of the enchanting landscape. 

Day 6:  Istanbul, Turkey

My last almost 24 hours in Turkey started with an early flight back to Istanbul.  Our last full day would be a chance to soak in every last morsel of last minute sights, sounds, and souvenir snags.  My suitcase and carry-ons were already filled to the brim.  Somehow I had space for a few more pieces of Turkey:  scented oils, a new ear piercing (curated ear stack here I come), and a few Turkish Evil Eye souvenirs.  My scented potion of choice has always been body oils and I was so excited to purchase some unique scents.  I’m obsessed with the Jasmine I got.   I’ll be so sad when I run out.  

I’m moving into my short hair phase, and of course I need to adorn my lovely, little lobes.  What better way to start it than with something that would remind me of an epic adventure.  Can you believe my conch piercing only cost $15 USD!? I begged the piercer to let me get another, not only because of the cost, but how quick and slightly painless he was able to complete the process.  Sadly, he declined because of healing and safety, which I appreciated.  

The Turkish Evil eye is a cultural symbol believed to offer protection from evil spirits and provide protection from harm. I bought three of them. One is a dangling chime I keep at my front door, and two keychains with the more traditional representation of the blue and white circular glass bead. One of the keychains I keep at my back door, and the other I use as an actual keychain. “Don’t try me, try Jesus”, Tobi Nwigwe said.   Your girl’s got to stay protected at all times… cause good vibes only!  

We bid Istanbul farewell for a second time with another beautiful dinner with beautiful views.  We enjoyed a tasting menu from the rooftop of Neolokal with the Blue Mosque as our backdrop.    

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The mystery, adventure, and thrust into the unknown are just a few of the things that ignite my love and obsession with travel. Yes, it could all go wrong… but, then, it could all go right! My Turkish Adventure with Kultured Travels couldn’t have been more right.   Good food, good views, and good vibes!  Our group of 5 women- all in different places in our lives- bonded, shared, left with new life lessons… and few new friends.  

You can never guarantee whether you’ll get a chance to visit a destination more than once, and I’m so grateful to have been able to experience Turkey for a second time-  through a more mature pair of eyes.  Almost 10 years since my last visit, similar to my life, so much had changed, yet so much had stayed the same.  At 25, I was on Spring Break during my second year teaching.  At 33, I was on the adult version of a summer vacation.  At 25, little did I know, a few months later, I’d begin my first long-term relationship of 5 years; and later that year, start a new job teaching Adult Education.  At 33, the rest of the story is to be told, isn’t it?!  But, maybe, just maybe, a trip to Turkey will, yet again, usher in a new season of transition, elevation, and new beginnings.  Stay tuned my friends. The fun has just begun!